Kydex Sheath Making (a how to thread??).

[webley445]

That bladerigger site has cool stuff but really pricey.

[rawhide_clyde]

Here's a recipe for a Kydex sheath coating that tends to mask the sound of stuff bumping the sheath and gives it a look similar to the RiggerCoat http://bladerigger.com/rigger/ as done by James Piorek.

Dear Clyde,
It's never been a secret!  (At least not that I can tell.)

To make "Alien Skin" you first need to choose whether or not you would like a wrinkled coating or a smooth.  Regardless, you start out with the same basic ingredients, namely Plasti-Dip and Mineral Spirits (paint thinner).  Plasti-Dip is the same basic stuff hardware companies use to put on the handles of pliers.

You can buy Plasti-Dip from Wal-Mart in small, terribly expensive cans (probably get about 4 - 5 sheaths out of it), or you can send off directly to the company and get it by the gallon (in all the sheaths I've made I've only gone through about a gallon and a half).  In fact, I wish you were closer.  I've got a couple gallons here I'll never use. 

Now, for the "wrinkled" finish on a large sheath (blade length 12") use two cups of Plasti-Dip and a table spoon of Weld-Bond epoxy (it looks a lot like Elmer's glue, but works far better and remains pliable).  Then, mix it up really well.  This next step is the crucial one:  Because you are trying to get plastic to stick to plastic (something plastic hates doing), you MUST take a wire wheel and rough up the exterior of your completed sheath.  Don't be bashful, groove the hell out of it.  Then take small, disposable foam-rubber paint brushes and apply to your heart's content.  Let the Plasti-Dip set up for a half hour between coats, and always put on at least three coats.

Now, for the "smooth" finish, you do the same basic thing, but you add about 1/3 cup mineral spirits to every cup of Plasti-Dip.  You still add the same amount of Weld-Bond, and you still MUST rough up the exterior of the sheath.  This time, however, you apply it using a spoon, letting the coating smoothly flow evenly over the entire surface of the sheath. This time, however, four coatings are minimum, and five are recommended.


You're probably wondering how to hold onto the sheaths at the same time you're coating them, right?  Well, despair not!  The "original evil genius" brainstormed this one out.  Okay, take a thick but cheap pair of scissors, run thread or dental floss through them, then suspend them from the ceiling so the scissors hang and eye height.  Just impale the open end of the sheath onto the hanging scissors, then use their handle to maneuver your sheath around as you coat it.  Your wife may not be happy, but it's a great, simple, and cheap way to make a sheath coating and drying rack.

Keep in mind, you must apply multiple coats of the mixture, as well as rough up the sheath really well, or the coating simply peels off with the slightest amount of pressure.  However, if you do this right, the coating will be fairly durable (and cheap to reapply, if necessary).  In all the sheaths I've made through the years, I've only ever had one sheath returned to me for re-coating, and that was because I didn't rough up the sheath enough.

I think I'll post this over on knifeforums.com sheath making page.  I should have done that when I wrote the "basic kydex how-to"
instructions.

See you at BLADE!

Matt

[ToolFool]

Nice work Clyde! Thank you very much for the advice!

[rawhide_clyde]

Here are some random things I tripped over while learning to smelt Kydex/Concealex. I set the material on a baking sheet and industrial heat gun for getting up to temp. The heat gun also makes it easier to fine tune the fit. Cotton gloves are my friend. Don't try to skimp on material, its' better to trim some than cut it too close. If the object being sheathed has some large or oddly shaped ends don't set the eyelet to close to the mouth or it will be a PITA to get it in. When using a drill press to make holes for the eyelet make sure the sheath is clamped in good, I've lost more than one or two good sheaths due to "helicoptering". Below is a pic of some early smelting attempts for my trainers.

[Deaths Head]

Thank you again DH and knuckleduster!

No problem.  Just let me know if you have any questions.  I'll do my best to answer them if I can.

[ToolFool]

Thank you again DH and knuckleduster!

[Deaths Head]

Toolfool, knuckleduster already had my back.  Knifekits.com is another place, but they pretty much have the same prices and supplies.  That is where I got most of my supplies.
Having a good press is very important.  A press like lcranston made.  The one I bought also has a chain where you can lock in place so that you keep it pressed for about 10 minutes without having to sit there.

Bruner, more or less, the seams will be straight after it has been pressed.  The foam of the press is applying pressure over the entire sheath from the top and bottom at equal forces, so it comes out pretty straight.  If there is a slight wave, you can heat the portion a little and straighten it up.  For that matter, you can heat certain portions of your newly made sheaths to touch certains sections you feel needs adjusting.

You can also make flat backed sheaths by placing something flat and rigid over the bottom piece of foam.  It is useful for when you putting in a clip.

[knuckleduster]

Thanks for all the great information gentlemen! And for the pics, lcranston! That press is sweet! I hope to start experimenting around with kydex a bit. Anybody have any resources for the necessary kydex equipment and supplies? knifekits.com seems to cover a lot of the necessities. Any other sites? DH, I know you just put together a kydex making kit. Any ideas for me?

www.texasknife.com/

Bought some stuff here.

[ToolFool]

Thanks for all the great information gentlemen! And for the pics, lcranston! That press is sweet! I hope to start experimenting around with kydex a bit. Anybody have any resources for the necessary kydex equipment and supplies? knifekits.com seems to cover a lot of the necessities. Any other sites? DH, I know you just put together a kydex making kit. Any ideas for me?

[lcranston]

Use thick pieces of foam and the seam ends up centered.  I have never tried the .040, I use the .060 for most small items and the .090 for large stuff and things I want more tension on.

[bruner]

 

How did you know I was going to ask for photos?

You must have ESPN or something

I haven't had a chance to look deeply into the tutorials that others have posted yet, but I'm wondering...  Your Kydex press, or anyone else's for that matter, how do you end up with a simetrical "seam" around whatever you are forming?

I guess that if you were only forming one side of a sheeth you would have a cold flat piece of kydex on one side and your hot and flexible piece on the other, then press...  But, if you were to do a "wrap around" or one piece of kydex that you fold over your tool then press, how does that seam end up?  I would think the seam could turn out pretty wavey.

I'm going to get some .040" thick kydex as opposed to the .060" thick stuff I tried before.  Has anyone else use .040?

Thanks,
Dan

[lcranston]

Here are pics of my wood press.

[lcranston]

I made an accordian press out of wood.  I took two pieces of hardwood about 6" x 10", put foam on each one.  I attached long handles on both and put a hinge at one end.  When I am pressing the item, I use a large C- clamp to maintain pressure on the item.  Its cheap and has worked for years.

[Deaths Head]

I once adjusted a small sheath by dunking it in boiling water until it was soft, then mashing it around the knife. (I was making a cup of noodles at the time and it seemed like a good idea. Worked out fine.)

Never thought of that.  That is a good idea.

[jggonzalez]

I've seen the Usual Suspects tutorial. Jens sure knows his stuff!

I once adjusted a small sheath by dunking it in boiling water until it was soft, then mashing it around the knife. (I was making a cup of noodles at the time and it seemed like a good idea. Worked out fine.)

[Belli]

Pretty good tutorial here.  It helped me out a bunch anyway.

Anso forum Tutorial:
http://usualsuspect.net/forums/showthread.php?t=69130

[0dBm]

DH,

Thanks for that.

[Deaths Head]

I recently lost, then, thankfully, found my Simonich Mini-Talon.  When I inspected it, the kydex sheath was loose.  What can I do, in the absence of the right tools, to tighten the grip?

TIA

You can use a blowdryer and heat the kydex just enough and adjust the tension.  Just don't heat it too much or the kydex will soften too much and loose its molding.

[0dBm]

I recently lost, then, thankfully, found my Simonich Mini-Talon.  When I inspected it, the kydex sheath was loose.  What can I do, in the absence of the right tools, to tighten the grip?

TIA

[webley445]

Yeah, use a heat gun, lots better results.
You could also try searching thru CPF for tutorial, I remember once seeing a great thread showing how, thats what got me going.

Having a dremel tool, even a battery operated one helps too. I had a grinding stone attachment that was cone shaped and it worked well for smoothing off edges and counter sinking  or enlarging holes I had drilled. Also for smoothing out the edges of drilled holes.

Another option instead of eyelets is using lacing or cord and "decorating" the holster at the same time helping to tighten it together, kinda like with leather stiching.

Another hint I recall reading about was using mouse pads for pressing the material after heating.

I'll post more if I think of anything else that doesn't get mentioned.

[Deaths Head]

Looking good bruner!
I am far from being a pro, but so far, I have been getting decent results considering my resources.
Best advice is that you have to use a lot of pressure when making the sheaths.  I've seen a tutorial that used four quick clamps.  I found out that it would have cost me about $65 for the clamps, so I just took the plunge and got the kydex press.  I have also heard of people stand on the foam like you have stated as well with some decent results.  I have also read of people parking their cars on the foam.  Don't ask me how they do it, I just read it.  If it is for small tools, bench vice could work well also.
To heat the foam, I use a paint stripper set on high and just wave it back and forth over the kydex until I get the consistency that I am looking for.  Others use a $15 toaster oven.  Blow torch, sure I guess that would work.  Wouldn't be my first choice though, but I improvise all the time too.
One thing that you can improvise very much on are the eyelets.  I ended up buying a kit specifically made for kydex.  The leather ones just split.  Custom knife makes seem to be able to use a lot of supplies found in leather shops, but I don't know why I don't have such luck.
At least when I buy a particular piece of equipment, I don't have to buy it again.
If I left anything out or if you have any questions, I'm always here.

[knuckleduster]

http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast_knives_tutorials_kydexsheath2.htm

Here is a pretty good tutorial.

[bruner]

Hello,

I'm starting this thead in hopes of learning myself and sharing that info with others.

Today, I played around with some Kydex and a blowtorch.  The results were less than pretty.

I took some 1/16" thick Kydex, heated it with a torch until it was flexible, then placed it over a multi-tool, put foam rubber (a gardening knee pad) on top, then a board, then stood on it with all my weight (approx 180 pounds).

This picture is actually my second attempt:


And...  Here is a back view:


The first attempt did not nearly "wrap" as well around the multi-tool.  On the second attempt shown in the photos, I used two small pieces of wood to help push down the Kydex on the two longer outer edges.  Still, the result was not very good.

I know a few of us here have been playing with Kydex and getting good results.  I'm not in this to do any mass production or even selling on the forum.  It just so happens that I have a good source of Kydex and would really like to learn how to make some sheaths for my stuff.

Any and all input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for looking,
Dan