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I need sharpening system advice please

Discussion in 'Sharpening Stuff -- Stones, Strops, and Systems' started by jabe1, Nov 29, 2015.

  1. jabe1

    jabe1 Loaded Pockets

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    I feel I need to get a newer sharpening system. Currently (and forever) I use a very fine steel, a two sided Arkansas stone, med. and fine, and a ceramic rod for touch ups.
    I am daily carrying a Blur now, which has a recurve to it and I can't get the edge I want with a stone.
    I have been considering a Lansky system, and a sharp maker. A cohort says he loves his Edge pro apex (knock off).

    What works well for you? Why?
     
  2. Mumbojumboo
    • GITD Manix 2XL Owner

    Mumbojumboo EDC Junkie!!!!!

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    They all work but what do you want shaving' sharp?
     
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  3. jabe1

    jabe1 Loaded Pockets

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    I don't need shaving sharp generally, although I keep a few like that.
    I use the blur at work and I'm a contractor. Not especially easy on the edge.
     
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  4. LivingUpNorth

    LivingUpNorth Loaded Pockets

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    I recently had the opportunity to try out the Work Sharp motorized sharpening system and it's pretty darn cool. It belongs to a buddy of mine, so I didn't read up on the story behind it, but it's supposed to put a convex edge on your blades thanks to the flexible belts. It's also wicked fast, so I was able to restore all of our kitchen knives in a short amount of time. It's also a lot easier to work with different blade shapes (curved, serrated, etc.) than a stone sharpener.

    That said, I only own a Spyderco Sharpmaker, which has worked really well for me, but is fairly time consuming and difficult to use on blades with a lot of belly/curve like my Buck Vantage. After using the Work Sharp, I've added it to my Cabela's wish list.
     
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  5. rbent

    rbent Loaded Pockets

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    I use a set of the 8" Razor Sharp paper wheels on a bench grinder flipped backwards. Sharp enough to shave with in a minute or two, or less. I do my sharpening with that and touch ups with the ceramic stick I have in my kitchen. I've got a Lansky set, haven't touched it since I got the wheels.
     
  6. edjo69

    edjo69 EDC Junkie

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    Recurves sharpen nicely on the Spyderco Sharp Maker. I use that with a few extra rods, med diamond (2) and ultra-fine ceramic (2). Barely ever use the diamonds though, only when re-profiling. Then strop religiously every time I sharpen and daily after I use a knife.
     
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  7. Foxwalk

    Foxwalk Loaded Pockets

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    Agreed, the Sharpmaker is fantastic for recurves.
     
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  8. LivingUpNorth

    LivingUpNorth Loaded Pockets

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    It's not that I can't sharpen curved blades on the Sharpmaker, just that it's difficult for me to get an edge that I'm satisfied with. Then again, I'd call knife sharpening an art of its own, one that I've only just been "okay" at throughout my life. :oops:
     
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  9. adnj

    adnj Loaded Pockets

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    I also use a Sharpmaker for my recurve folders especially the Kershaw Specbumps. I keep mine out on a workbench and touch them up on the white rods often. It takes about 20 seconds.


    [​IMG]
     
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  10. Likota

    Likota Loaded Pockets

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    +1 for the Sharpmaker
     
  11. Adahn

    Adahn Loaded Pockets

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    If you're good at free hand sharpening already just get yourself some diamond stones.
    Even the ones that come in a set for $30something should be good enough, of course it's better to get some with a holder.
    You can use the edge of the stones for the recurve as unlike with a ceramic stone the edge of the diamond one won't wear off.
    For me a double sided stone medium/fine (around 400/800 grit) is working fine.
     
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  12. opichocal

    opichocal Empty Pockets

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    I use a lansky diamond system and have good results. I tried a ken onion worksharp at Cabelas once and was totally impressed. I just couldn't justify the $150 price tag. When my lansky wears out I'll buy it.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
  13. Lightnig

    Lightnig Loaded Pockets

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    Lansky is very hard to beat for all but the largest and smallest of blades, especially for the price.

    Been using mine for more years than I care to admit, always able to get knives shaving sharp, can bring up a mirror edge if I care to spend the time (but don't find it necessary at all) and have never felt the need to upgrade to Diamond stones. even with replacing several stones more than once due to age (and occassionally stupidity) I am sure that I have well under $100 bucks in it - total.
     
  14. flatblackcapo

    flatblackcapo EDC Junkie!!!!!

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    I have been meaning to get a set of those paper wheels..... maybe for Christmas. :smoke:
     
  15. UCChris

    UCChris Loaded Pockets

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    I have the Lansky system and, honestly, I hate it. Ended up picking up a Spyderco Sharpmaker at BladeHQ on Friday. It is amazing!
     
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  16. MicroMike

    MicroMike Loaded Pockets

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    I am another very happy Sharpmaker user. I picked mine up in the Marketplace with the Diamond, medium, fine, ultra fine for about what a new one would cost.

    I hit my PM2 with the ultra fine weekly and could probably shave with it if I need too...
     
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  17. thatotherguy

    thatotherguy EDC Junkie!!!!!

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    I love my Sharpmaker. As long as you're willing to let the system work for you and don't try to work against the system, it's a beautifully simple, quick, consistent, and effective method of sharpening a knife. I do keep stones around for the quick touchups and for the things that won't fit on the Sharpmaker, but most of my sharpening work is done on the Sharpmaker.
     
  18. bdcochran

    bdcochran Empty Pockets

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    I would suggest that you watch at least 10-12 youtube videos on sharpening. I own a number of systems, ranging from stones to belt sanders to grinding wheels to a simple file. They all will work.

    1. learn the system before buying.
    2. always lightly apply the sharpening system to the knife;
    3. start with a coarser grit and work to the finer grits;
    4. have patience or stop and continue on another day.
    5. go with the grind on the knife unless you know what you are doing and want to change.
    6. do not follow the advice to sharpen five times on one side before doing the other side - do only two passes on one side, and get it down to one pass on each side.
    7. do not overheat;
    8. keep your sharpening system clean and packed away in hopefully a clear plastic container.
    9. wear eye protection with most systems.
    10. Continually clean your work area. Those fine particles are not healthy to spread on your skin, inhale or have near your eyes. If you have other than a manual system, move the equipment outside to use it and possibly avoid damage to your lungs or getting fine particles on the floor or your normal work area.


    You don't have to do the silly paper cutting routine you see in most videos, You can tell what is sharp by lightly touching a knife.

    Last weekend, I had to cut up a 20 foot fallen branch of softwood. I used a hatchet. Afterwards, a couple of light strokes on each side with a bastard file was enough to restore the sharpness. It was cleaned and put away. The holidays are coming up. The potential carving knives got the treatment on a leather strop on a less than $50 1 inch Harbor Freight belt sander. If I had known how far I would go up the learning curve, I would have bought a 2 or 3 inch belt sander instead.

    I even have sandpaper in progressively finer grits. You can use that as well.

    You should also expand your thinking. Sharpening a pair of scissors, a hoe, a shovel or a pick should also be considered when choosing a system(s). The sharpening principles/approach is the same.
     
  19. moostapha

    moostapha Loaded Pockets

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    Perfect advice, bdcochran.

    One question....how do you sharpen scissors (or chisel grind)? Do you just let the burr build up or do you sharpen with the back side flat?
     
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  20. A.B.

    A.B. Loaded Pockets

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    Never the flat side.
     
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